Marcus Hanke[PuristSPro Moderator]
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Basel 2013: The big Ulysse Nardin Report
May 07, 2013,14:03 PM
Ulysse Nardin at Baselworld 2013
presented by Marcus Hanke
Fans
of Ulysse Nardin, like myself, will be very happy: 2013 is one of those
years seeing UN excelling with a fireworks of novelties; new movements,
new models, new complications.
I start with an entirely new
series of ladies’ watches, which is powered by a completely new
manufacture movement, the cal. UN-310. Besides the silicium escapement,
which is already a standard for all recently self-developed UN
movements, this new “heart” is unique by being among the rare breed of
mechanical watch movements specifically developed for ladies.
Additionally, it includes a feature that is also made especially for the
female part of the population: Instead of having to pull out the crown
to its appropriate settings in order to use it for winding, changing the
date and setting the time, it has a small pusher that permits choosing
these settings.
The
reason for this construction might be profane, but is also typical for
UN’s tradition of developing practical solutions: More than ten years
ago, Chai Schnyder asked her husband Rolf to produce a mechanical watch
that would not endanger the ladies’ fingernails when they have to pull
out the crowns for setting the time or the date. To be honest: I have
thought about such a solution myself, when I struggled with a stubborn
crown, only to rip it past the middle position for the date change
numerous times.
Unfortunately, Rolf Schnyder did not live to
witness his wife’s wish to come true, but the new cal. 310 is a real
gem. Besides hours, minutes and a small second, it has a date at 6, that
can be quick-set forward and backward, and a separate small hand,
indicating which function the crown would execute when it is twisted:
winding the mainspring, changing the date, adjusting the time.
Cal.
310 is embedded into a very attractive and feminine timepiece: The
“Jade” features an oval shaped case (36x39mm) in either pink or white
gold. The distinctly shaped lugs are covered with either green jade
emerald, blue lapis lazouli, black onyx or white ceramic, while the bezel is
adorned with diamonds of various sizes, sometimes also in combination
with jade, sapphire or onyx. The mother-of-pearl dial has diamond hour
markers.
I sincerely hope that the “Jade” line will be a big success.
Unexpectedly,
the cal. 310 already has successfully passed on an important part of
its DNA to another, completely different new timepiece: the “Stranger”.
The
“Stranger” is one of Ulysse Nardin’s greatest surprises shown at
Baselworld, if not the greatest at all: a musical watch, combining state
of the art movement design typical for UN with the classic function of a
music box. While the base movement cal. 690 has a silicium escapement
and also the practical mechanism of switching the crown between the
modes of winding, date changing and time setting by means of a pusher (although this pusher is integrated in the crown, unlike the position at 4, as in the "Jade"),
as introduced by the ladies’ “Jade” watches and their cal. 310 movement,
a large, rotating drum at 12 moves its tiny pins under ten metal
blades, mounted on the dial. A crystal clear sound results from pin and
blade meeting each other, striking the opening tunes of the famous song
“Strangers in the night”. This is a nice change from most other musical
watches using classic tunes, from Bach, Mozart or Vivaldi.
The melody is played every full hour, but can be switched off or played on demand, by pressing a pusher.
I
also love the fact that this memorable timepiece features such a
“banal” complication as a date display, showing that it is still a
practical watch designed to be worn in daily use. The power reserve of
this 45mm wide watch is about 48 hours, while the second mainspring barrel, which is also wound by the rotor, is exclusively devoted to powering the music box function. It is possible to hand-wind both barrels, the one for the movement by twisting it clockwise, and the other for the music-box by turning it counter-clockwise. At full tension, the music-box barrel has a power reserve for playing the melody five times.
The
“Stranger” is limited to 99 pieces, and I would not be astonished to
see further musical watches featuring classic songs released in the
future. Maybe it is even possible to modify a “Stranger” with a new
song, as I see it, only the rotating disk and the blades would have to
be replaced.
Another highlight of Ulysse Nardin’s haute horologie
department is the new “Skeleton Tourbillon”. Until now, most Ulysse
Nardin tourbillons (with the exception of the “Freak”) were built with
the collaboration of renown independent experts, such as Christophe
Claret. The new manufacture skeleton tourbillon watch, though, is
completely developed and built in-house.
What
catches the spectator’s eye is the clean and classic layout of the
bridges, inspired by traditional pocket watch movements, and the large
mainspring barrel located at 12, adorned with the brand name. It offers a
huge power reserve of about a week, approx. 170 hours. I can imagine
that fully winding it can result in fingers hurting ... the beautifully
finished flying tourbillon has of course a silicium escapement, and the
wonderful heat-blued hands add further beauty to the 44mm watch.
A pocket watch movement served as inspiration for the Skeleton's bridge layout
There
is a new “Freak”! From its beginning in 2001, the “Freak” was always
the test bed for new technologies and materials, and subject to many
changes and evolutions. Until now, the carousel Freak needed a central
pin to serve as a bearing and stabilising element for the rotating
movement bridge. This resulted in a central hole in the upper crystal,
making it practically impossible to seal the watch against water.
Consequently, the Freaks had no water tightness rating.
The new
“Freak Cruiser” is a flying carousel, with the movement resting only on
its lower bearing, while not being more prone to irritation after shocks
than its predecessor. Water tightness rating now is at 30 meters, so
the “Freak” does not have to fear the water again. This finds a nice
expression with the movement bridge being shaped like an anchor, also
the bezel has a different outline, offering a better grip for setting
the time. The "Cruiser" has the same diameter as its predecessors, 45mm and is available in 18k rose and white gold.
The
“Diavolo” has become the “Phantom”. With a flying tourbillon on the
carousel, a “meta-tourbillon”, so to say, Ulysse Nardin caused some
surprise some years ago. Then called “Diavolo”, this unique complication
is now offered in a limited edition of 99 pieces in both rose and white
gold, with a greenish black “dial” colour and black anodised movement
bridge. Looks really great!
Another,
already expected novelty is the new “Marine Chronograph”. Ulysse Nardin
had taken the first steps toward the development of an own automatic
chronograph movement, when, unexpectedly, Ebel offered the rights and
parts of its well-known cal. 137 chronograph movement for sale; an
opportunity too good to miss. For Ulysse Nardin, it was a bit like the
homecoming of a twin, separated at birth: When Ebel needed a replacement
for the Zenith cal. 3019, resp. 400, also called “El Primero”, Ulysse
Nardin had the need for a thin and well-winding base movement for the
perpetual calendar mechanism, developed by Ludwig Oechslin. The two
companies teamed up and purchased the rights on the cal. 1340
chronograph movement, produced by Lémania, at that time under the same
organisational roof as Ebel. While Ebel massively modified the
chronograph, in order to stay as closely as possible with the successful
dial layout of the El Primero (the original Lémania cal. 1340 had a
central 60 minutes chronograph hand), Ulysse Nardin was mainly
interested in an improved winding efficiency, provided by an eccentric
reverser, often called “Pellaton gear”, as it is also used in classic
IWC watches. Additionally, this solution permits the movement to become
very thin.
Eccentric reverser of the new cal. 150's automatic winding mechanism
Unfortunately
for watch enthusiasts, Ebel decided to discontinue its mechanically
sophisticated watches and dumped its excellent chronograph movement -
luckily for Ulysse Nardin, which invested about two years of further development to optimize and modify the movement with the latest silicium technology, fully justifying the new caliber designation UN-150. So I am glad to present the new Marine
Chronograph Manufacture:
In a rather decently sized 43mm case,
the new chronograph sports a classic layout, with date window at 4:30.
While the limited edition (150 pieces) in 18k rose gold has a highly
attractive and classic fired enamel dial with Roman numerals, of course produced by Donzé Cadrans, UN's specialist for fine enamel work. The
unlimited variants have a more modern appearance, with skeletonized
hands and Arabic numerals.
Water
tightness is rated at 100 meters, and a view through the displayback
reveals Ulysse Nardin's substantial rework and upgrade of the movement,
integrating a silicium escapement under an escapement bridge. Also the view on the cam
and lever activation of the chronograph function appears to be more
obstructed now by an enlarged automatic bridge.
The 18k gold variant has a rose gold rotor
Price-wise,
the new chronograph is reaching for the upper skies, nearing the region
of the Overseas and Royal Oaks, which is in my opinion very ambitious
for a steel chronograph with a movement built in larger series and
lacking hand-applied finish. Also, the watch industry’s marketing has
exalted the column wheel and vertical clutch to be the best inventions
since sliced bread (regardless of its factual qualities), so it is a bit
difficult, in my opinion, to position a product lacking both that
high. Well, time will tell if market accepts. The watches themselves are
marvellous.
Now let’s have a look on the other novelties, mostly new cases and/or new dials:
First
on the list, and I believe economically also the most important
novelty, is the new Marine Chronometer in 43mm. Far more than a simple
facelift, it is now equipped with the new and excellent cal. 118
movement, which has been developed from the outset to be used in the
Marine Chronometer watches. Small second and power reserve indications
are integrated in the base movement already, which makes additional
modules superfluous. The date can be quick-adjusted forward and
backward, and the escapement applies latest DiamonSil technology.
The
hands have adopted a more sportive and modern shape, which I like very
much. Unlike the 45mm variant shown last year, the 43mm version has
Arabic numerals.
The “Blue Toro” Perpetual Calendar has become the “Black Toro”, with black dial and ceramic bezel.
The
“Royal Blue” tourbillon, that wonderful tourbillon with sapphire
bridges, designed by Christophe Claret, has now received a more feminine
counterpart, the “Royal Ruby”.
Much to my joy, the enamel department of Ulysse Nardin, Donzé Cadrans, supplied several new, absolutely breathtaking timepieces:
First
is the “Carnival of Venice”, a piece of art in enamel champlevé
technique. The minute repeater shows a scene from Venice in front of the
famous Rialto bridge, where two masked figural automatons remove their
masks whenever the repeater function is engaged.
Another
enamel champlevé highlight is the “Classico Serpent”. Following the
“Classico Dragon”, it showcases another animal of the Chinese zodiac in
wonderful execution (limited to 88 pieces).
Then
there is another one of the sail ship series, the “Pride of Baltimore”,
depicting the 1977-built replica of a typical Baltimore clipper of the
early 19th century, which tragically sank with the loss of four in a
white squall in 1986.
Completing
the list of five enamel dial watches this year, is an unexpected sight:
a simple, and therefore extremely beautiful rose gold “Classico” with a
plain, white fired enamel dial and heat-blued hands. This is a
perfectly elegant watch!
Finally, there are some new models in the Marine Diver/Marine Diver Chronograph series:
*
Another “Black Sea” Diver, with rubber-coated steel case and blue hands
and markers. They appear flashier here in the picture, and are darker
in reality.
* “Black Sea Chronograph” with a rubber-coated steel case, combined with 18k rose gold elements; looks good.
* Blue dial Marine Diver, in Titanium and 18k rose gold, and the mixture of both.
* Rose gold Marine Diver and Marine Diver chronograph:
* And, last but not least, a rather attractive silver dial variant of the Marine Diver chronograph in steel case:
Under
the line, this is an extremely productive year for Ulysse Nardin.
Apparently, the rebuild of the factory, combined with a modernised
production, permitted a quicker output of the creative ideas from the
bright spirits at UN.
This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2013-07-08 01:43:20
Comments:
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Basel 2013: The big Ulysse Nardin Report
By: Marcus Hanke : May 7th, 2013-14:03
Ulysse Nardin at Baselworld 2013 presented by Marcus Hanke Fans of Ulysse Nardin, like myself, will be very happy: 2013 is one of those years seeing UN excelling with a fireworks of novelties; new movements, new models, new complications. I start with an ...
Thanks for this superb presentation, Marcus.
By: amanico : May 7th, 2013-14:24
Well for me, the winners are the skeleton tourbillon Manufacture, the Stranger, and the Carnival of Venice. I am happy to see UN reelasing an in house Chrono, but expected a bit more on the finishing, as you said, and at least on th dial, with the presenc...
Thanks for your kind words ...
By: Marcus Hanke : May 8th, 2013-11:33
... and I think you will be as fascinated by the new pieces as I were once you hold them in your hands. the Freak Cruiser is a gem. The new bezel might be something you have to get used to, but it is more functional, and reminds me of the great Porsche De...
I won't bet on it ...
By: Marcus Hanke : May 8th, 2013-11:34
... since the tourbillon is such an integrative design element of the "Skeleton". Regards, Marcus
Classico
By: Ares501 - Mr Green : May 7th, 2013-15:54
both your excellent report and my favorite from your report Most sincerely Damjan
You mean the enamel Classico? ...
By: Marcus Hanke : May 8th, 2013-11:35
... my favourite, too - if I don't count the marvellous gems, like the Skeleton, the Cruiser, or the Stranger. Regards, Marcus
Excellent report....
By: KIH : May 7th, 2013-17:02
... many, many fascinating pieces, as always. Thank you for the report, Marcus. I hope to see some of them in the fresh one day! Ken
UN is back, and Marcus is Back!
By: MichaelC : May 7th, 2013-20:39
Over the years Marcus, there have been no reports I look forward to as much as yours. I am thrilled that UN has launched such an impressive array of novelties that we see your talents at the forefront again. On the watches, there are several tempting crea...
Thanks, thanks, thanks! ...
By: Marcus Hanke : May 8th, 2013-11:53
I am glad you like the report, and I will be present here more frequently in the future. Just have to deal with sickness in my familym which consumes a lot of energy. Regards, Marcus
Wonderful presentation ...
By: nilomis : May 8th, 2013-07:11
Your presentation, as usual, is an excellent and detailed introduction to where U.N. is going. I'm unsure if I like the most "flashy" models, since my preferences are for more functional and under the radar models. For me, the black dialed chronograph is ...
Of course ...
By: nilomis : May 8th, 2013-12:38
But I feel more comfortable (and safe) wearing a watch that does not cry louder as most of the U. N. models do. That's the reason why my "vote" goes to the black dialed chronograph. Thanks, Nilo
Some new info added to the original article ...
By: Marcus Hanke : May 8th, 2013-11:26
Thankfully, Ulysse Nardin supplied me with some additional information, as well as minor corrections to my article, which I have integrated into it. Mainly, it concerns the movement of the "Stranger", especially its power management. Regards, Marcus
2013 is an amazing year for UN
By: Zebda : May 8th, 2013-13:32
Dear Marcus, many thanks for the great report. 5 new movements for Basel fair 2013 the Rolf "UN Dream team" continues to work wonders , this year is probably one of the most prolific and creative as Ulysse Nardin have known. Regards, CE
Great report of this years fireworks!!!
By: moc : May 10th, 2013-02:18
Undoubtedly a stellar year for UN,wow. The tourbillon manufacture,is a great watch,just sublime,the modern skeleton work is totally my taste. I ve gone a bit off the Stranger....I don t know if "strangers in the night"coming off my wrist is what I expect ...
I saw your eyes glittering with joy ...
By: Marcus Hanke : May 14th, 2013-07:04
... when watching the video of the "Cruiser" on the tiny camera display. Yes, it is indeed a marvelous and worthy "Freak", my wife, with her love for everything maritime, likes the anchor movement, too. Regards, Marcus
Whats not to like in this years collection??
By: moc : May 15th, 2013-14:31
The cruiser is (Yes I share your wife s aesthetic point of view..) number 1 spot....shared with the Tourbillon... These 2 won t make me sleep in the months to come. I can t wait for them to hit the shops in the next few months. i will be waiting with anti...
Which Chronometer do you mean?
By: Marcus Hanke : May 12th, 2013-11:17
The new Marine Chronometer has the inhouse produced UN cal. 118, a highly modern movement with DiamonSil escapement, date quick setting forward and backward, integrated power reserve display. The "Classico" chronometer with enamel dial has the ETA 2892A2....
Love the Freak Cruiser!
By: palmasea : May 13th, 2013-22:41
Im excited about the new Freak Cruiser - it looks superb in RG...the movement is a real beauty and it maintains its "freakiness" intact! Thanks for the report Marcus, you are the only one anywhere on the net with photos of this watch! Best, Palmasea
As I wrote to Mo already ...
By: Marcus Hanke : May 14th, 2013-07:06
... the "Cruiser" is a stunning piece. I would even go so far to say that it is a pity that it was shown along the "Skeleton" and the "Stranger", since three such breathtaking timepieces presented at the same time might compromise each other's impact a li...