WHL[VC Moderator]
4922
Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture Review
Jul 30, 2013,19:04 PM
I’m not sure how much the general population of watch
buyers cares about the movement ticking away under the dial and inside
the case of their watches, but I would think that the typical
PuristSPro reader gives the movement more consideration than is
typical. Ulysse Nardin has used the ETA 2892 for decades, and it has
been a workhorse for the brand, being reliable, accurate, and a good
foundation for interesting complicated watches. It is not, however, a
movement that excites the collector in me, who seeks exclusivity along
with great performance and reliability. With the introduction of the
Ulysse Nardin caliber 118 last year in the Marine Chronometer
Manufacture, the brand finally got me excited about the Marine
Chronometer design in its entirety. There was just the issue with the
case being 45 mm in diameter!
At Basel this year the brand introduced the Marine Chronometer Manufacture in a 43 mm case that better suits my taste.
The high polish case and lugs is given relief by the dramatic coin edge of the bezel.
Not only is the size a bit better, but when it comes to the Marine
Chronometer design I have always had a preference for the Arabic dials
over the Roman ones. On the silver dial model these applied markers are
black, and the skeleton hands with luminous tips are also black, tying
in nicely with the black rubber grip on the crown, and either the black
rubber strap or black crocodile strap (a stainless steel bracelet is
also an option). The outer railroad minute track is broken up by
luminour rectangles, helping to orient the eyes for an accurate reading
of the time in the dark.
The touches of red in the power reserve subdial bring the dial to life,
along with the red printed “UN 118” in the small seconds subdial (UN is
right to proudly proclaim the movement inside this watch).
While wearing a watch, all I really care about is the case and dial,
but I want to know there is a great movement ticking away inside the
watch as well. The UN 118 movement was conceived as an integrated
movement for the Marine Chronometer design, rather than as a module on
top of a base movement, as is the case with the UN-26 that powers the
non-Manufacture models, which are still in production. I like the
larger size of it (31 mm), which looks good and proportional in the
sapphire case back.
The finishing is nicely done, with circular Geneva waves, attractive
beveling on the bridges, and perlage under the balance wheel. The
movement has a 60 hour power reserve.
As with all brands, collectors have to pay a premium for having an
in-house movement in their watch. Ulysse Nardin values the caliber 118
in the Marine Chronometer Manufacture at what I think to be a
reasonable 25% premium to the previous generation of the Marine
Chronometer.
Thank you for reading.
Bill
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-07-31 21:22:06
Comments:
view entire thread
Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture Review
By: WHL : July 30th, 2013-19:04
I’m not sure how much the general population of watch buyers cares about the movement ticking away under the dial and inside the case of their watches, but I would think that the typical PuristSPro reader gives the movement more consideration than is typi...
But the story doesn't tell us if you bought it. :)))
By: amanico : July 30th, 2013-22:18
Seriously, this Marine Chronometer is a very good Watch. The only thing I don't like is the double writing, in French and in English around the power reserve indicator. I just don't get it. For the rest, nothing to say, this is a cool Watch. Best, and tha...
Not mine, but a friend's
By: WHL : August 1st, 2013-07:14
and it fits very well within his collection (a focus on watches with power reserve indication: IWC Portofino 8 day, PAM 384, VC Overseas Dual Time). Bill
Great photos and thoughts Bill
By: MichaelC : July 31st, 2013-09:27
The black numerals really seduce me on this watch. I think these revised dials are far nicer than the ones that were shown with the initial launch, and aside from the enamel dialed LE edition in gold, this is my favorite version of the watch.
The rose gold LE with enamel dial is gorgeous....
By: WHL : August 1st, 2013-07:30
and I like the ruthenium finish on that movement as well......but it has a very different feel and a price point. (I'm kinda hoping docsnov will take a few photos for us). Bill
Not bad...
By: aaronm : July 31st, 2013-11:18
A bit big, but based on UN's recent work, at least it isn't 46mm or similar. One question, does it also come on a bracelet, and if so, any idea if that design has been tweeked or if it's the same as before? A
Thanks
By: aaronm : August 1st, 2013-08:17
It would be nice for UN to update the bracelet too, but alas... A
Photos of the LE Marine Manufacture
By: WHL : August 6th, 2013-08:50
Docsnov forwarded these to me to share on the forum. Enjoy! I especially like the finish on the gold rotor highlighted against the darker ruthenium finish of the movement in the LE model. Bill ...