Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture Review

Jul 30, 2013,19:04 PM
 

I’m not sure how much the general population of watch buyers cares about the movement ticking away under the dial and inside the case of their watches, but I would think that the typical PuristSPro reader gives the movement more consideration than is typical. Ulysse Nardin has used the ETA 2892 for decades, and it has been a workhorse for the brand, being reliable, accurate, and a good foundation for interesting complicated watches. It is not, however, a movement that excites the collector in me, who seeks exclusivity along with great performance and reliability. With the introduction of the Ulysse Nardin caliber 118 last year in the Marine Chronometer Manufacture, the brand finally got me excited about the Marine Chronometer design in its entirety. There was just the issue with the case being 45 mm in diameter!

At Basel this year the brand introduced the Marine Chronometer Manufacture in a 43 mm case that better suits my taste.





The high polish case and lugs is given relief by the dramatic coin edge of the bezel.





Not only is the size a bit better, but when it comes to the Marine Chronometer design I have always had a preference for the Arabic dials over the Roman ones. On the silver dial model these applied markers are black, and the skeleton hands with luminous tips are also black, tying in nicely with the black rubber grip on the crown, and either the black rubber strap or black crocodile strap (a stainless steel bracelet is also an option). The outer railroad minute track is broken up by luminour rectangles, helping to orient the eyes for an accurate reading of the time in the dark.





The touches of red in the power reserve subdial bring the dial to life, along with the red printed “UN 118” in the small seconds subdial (UN is right to proudly proclaim the movement inside this watch).

While wearing a watch, all I really care about is the case and dial, but I want to know there is a great movement ticking away inside the watch as well. The UN 118 movement was conceived as an integrated movement for the Marine Chronometer design, rather than as a module on top of a base movement, as is the case with the UN-26 that powers the non-Manufacture models, which are still in production. I like the larger size of it (31 mm), which looks good and proportional in the sapphire case back.





The finishing is nicely done, with circular Geneva waves, attractive beveling on the bridges, and perlage under the balance wheel. The movement has a 60 hour power reserve.





As with all brands, collectors have to pay a premium for having an in-house movement in their watch. Ulysse Nardin values the caliber 118 in the Marine Chronometer Manufacture at what I think to be a reasonable 25% premium to the previous generation of the Marine Chronometer.

Thank you for reading.

Bill

 


  This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-07-31 21:22:06

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Comments: view entire thread

 

But the story doesn't tell us if you bought it. :)))

 
 By: amanico : July 30th, 2013-22:18
Seriously, this Marine Chronometer is a very good Watch. The only thing I don't like is the double writing, in French and in English around the power reserve indicator. I just don't get it. For the rest, nothing to say, this is a cool Watch. Best, and tha... 

The bilingual inscription for the power reserve is correct ...

 
 By: Marcus Hanke : August 1st, 2013-05:37
... and faithfully reproduces the original, the big ship chronometers: Regards, Marcus ...  

Not mine, but a friend's

 
 By: WHL : August 1st, 2013-07:14
and it fits very well within his collection (a focus on watches with power reserve indication: IWC Portofino 8 day, PAM 384, VC Overseas Dual Time). Bill

Great photos and thoughts Bill

 
 By: MichaelC : July 31st, 2013-09:27
The black numerals really seduce me on this watch. I think these revised dials are far nicer than the ones that were shown with the initial launch, and aside from the enamel dialed LE edition in gold, this is my favorite version of the watch.

Personally, I miss the heat-blued numerals and hands ...

 
 By: Marcus Hanke : August 1st, 2013-05:40
... which have become somewhat of a distinctive design of the Marine Chronometer series. Regards, Marcus

The rose gold LE with enamel dial is gorgeous....

 
 By: WHL : August 1st, 2013-07:30
and I like the ruthenium finish on that movement as well......but it has a very different feel and a price point. (I'm kinda hoping docsnov will take a few photos for us). Bill

Not bad...

 
 By: aaronm : July 31st, 2013-11:18
A bit big, but based on UN's recent work, at least it isn't 46mm or similar. One question, does it also come on a bracelet, and if so, any idea if that design has been tweeked or if it's the same as before? A

The bracelet is very similar to the previous version ...

 
 By: Marcus Hanke : August 1st, 2013-05:34
... and also lacking a quick fine adjustment in the clasp, which is a clear disadvantage and not state of the art. Regards, Marcus

Thanks

 
 By: aaronm : August 1st, 2013-08:17
It would be nice for UN to update the bracelet too, but alas... A

Photos of the LE Marine Manufacture

 
 By: WHL : August 6th, 2013-08:50
Docsnov forwarded these to me to share on the forum. Enjoy! I especially like the finish on the gold rotor highlighted against the darker ruthenium finish of the movement in the LE model. Bill ...