MichaelC[AP Moderator]
18849
A quick refresher on the Ulysse Nardin Caliber 160
Jan 10, 2014,13:05 PM
In 2006, for UN's 160th Anniversary, the brand launched its first in-house designed and manufactured movement. The movement would end up powering only 1000 watches - 500 white gold Anniversary 160s and 500 red gold Anniversary 160s.
This "base" movement powers what appear at first glance to be a rather basic set of features - hours, minutes, sub seconds, and a big date, with a 50 hour power reserve. But of course with Ulysse Nardin, there is always more to the story.
The sub seconds indicator on this movement is what UN terms "direct drive". That means the display does not lose any precision when indicating the seconds. The movement also happens to be a "hack seconds" movement, so when the crown is pulled to the time setting position, the balance wheel is stopped and the seconds hand holds still for precise time setting.
The big date also deserves recognition. First of all, it is perfectly trimmed and the display wheels are in the same plane. But the UN movement touches include a date that can be rapidly adjusted forward or backwards, and a protection feature to prevent the user from accidentally damaging the function if using the rapid corrector during the changing zone. When you adjust the date on this watch, it moves very quickly and precisely, and a short rotation of the crown allows the date to move (as opposed to some movements where it seems you must rotate the crown quite a bit more for each date change).
We see more of Caliber 160's technical prowess through the caseback window. I still find this movement one of the most beautiful automatic winding base calibers I have seen. The rotor has a unique guilloche hatch pattern, and the "160" logo is filled with a brilliant blue lacquer. It glides over ceramic ball bearings.
And look at this beautiful green geared wheel...
Which actually changes to purple and blue depending on the light. Well, that is part of the Dual Ulysse Escapement.
First launched in the 28'800 V/h Freak, this escapement requires no lubrication and all but eliminates sliding friction. The system utilizes 2 wheels, each with 18 teeth. UN's design allows for a substantial reduction in lift angle to around 30 degrees. Per Ulysse Nardin: "Lift angle is the arc run by the balance between its first contact with the escapement and its last contact. The shorter the arc is, the lower is the disturbance of the natural oscillation of the balance".
In order to use two wheels for the escapement, they have to be extremely light weight. Utilizing photolithography and electro-plating to build the wheels from nickel phosphorous, the wheels are virtually weightless after being skeletonized.
The balance wheel is adjusted with 4 inertia screws. You will see they are recessed into the outer rim, with the purpose of reducing turbulence when the movement is running.
The Caliber 160 comes with COSC testing and therefore is an officially certified chronometer.
I remember when the watch launched in 2006. I thought it was the very definition of a "novelty" watch - entirely new from top to bottom, inside and out.
Lately I find myself dreaming of a Sonata Silicium or maybe even a Freak Cruiser. 2 pieces which epitomize Ulysse Nardin. But does either do so more than the Anniversary 160 with its dazzling Caliber 160? Maybe not.
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2014-01-11 14:47:02