amanico[JLC Moderator]
338386
Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014: A review on the Perpetual Manufacture
Mar 16, 2014,12:27 PM
Foversta showed you a picture of an all new Perpetual Calendar during a cocktail held at the Ulysse Nardin Paris Boutique.
There was no press file at this time, for a good reason: The watch belongs to the Basel 2014 collection!
The case, dial, hands, crown and bezel are all redesigned, but this is a true, characteristic Ulysse Nardin Perpetual + GMT + Big Date.
The layout of the dial, the construction of the Perpetual Calendar + GMT is something very familiar for any Ulysse Nardin Fan, for the Perpetual Calendar lovers.
Which is not a surprise, since the movement is the same, the Cal U.N 32, already used for the former Perpetual Calendars.
The Cal UN-32:
I must say that I appreciate a lot UN Perpetual Calendars, as they are, in my opinion, the most friendly in the category.
Why? Simple! You can set the date forward and backward, without fear to break the movement, just by using the crown, while, on others, you have to use one or several pushers, and if you change the date during the " danger zone " time ( 9 PM / 3 AM ), you are done, your movement is broken, or at least, there are big chances it breaks.
Therefore, it is a GMT, which will be appreciated by the travelers among us.Here again, the two pushers on each side of the case makes it easy and friendly.
Nothing new, these specificities are shared by any Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendar GMT.
Which is new is the aesthetics. And I must say I am pleasantly surprised!
I had a problem with the model which was former to th " El Toro ". The case, the bezel and the hands were too close to the Sonata, in fact, they were the same.
So, if you already owned the Sonata, getting the Perpetual Calendar may be disturbing... It may be.
Here is a photo of this former Perpetual Calendar GMT, Ref 329-60:
With the El Toro, you don't have the problem of a too close aesthetical proximity with the Sonata, even the Sonata Streamline:
The El Toro has a strong personality, with an unvaoidable counterpart... It may not be eveybody's taste.
With the new Perpetual Calendar GMT, the register is different...
The case is more conventional, as big as the El Toro ( 43 mm ) but more conventional, consensual.
The lugs are deliciously shaped, the dial is more discrete than on the El Toro or the former version, the skeleted hands are thinner, and the bezel is more sober than before.
The infinity symbol just above the mention " Perpetual " is a nice detail, too.
Less exhuberant than the El Toro, it gains in elegance, what it looses in character.
It is a limited edition of 250 in Platinum, and 250 pieces in Rose Gold.
The Rose Gold version:
Here are the live pictures I could take thanks to the kindness of the Paris Boutique:
Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,
Best,
Nicolas
This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-03-16 12:31:44 This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-03-16 12:32:18 This message has been edited by pingtsai on 2014-03-16 15:26:32 This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-03-20 15:24:49