Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2014: A review on the Perpetual Manufacture

Mar 16, 2014,12:27 PM
 



Foversta showed you a picture of an all new Perpetual Calendar during a cocktail held at the Ulysse Nardin Paris Boutique.


There was no press file at this time, for a good reason: The watch belongs to the Basel 2014 collection!

The case, dial, hands, crown and bezel are all redesigned, but this is a true, characteristic Ulysse Nardin Perpetual + GMT + Big Date.

The layout of the dial, the construction of the Perpetual Calendar + GMT is something very familiar for any Ulysse Nardin Fan, for the Perpetual Calendar lovers.

Which is not a surprise, since the movement is the same, the Cal U.N 32, already used for the former Perpetual Calendars.

The Cal UN-32:


I must say that I appreciate a lot UN Perpetual Calendars, as they are, in my opinion, the most friendly in the category.

Why? Simple! You can set the date forward and backward, without fear to break the movement, just by using the crown, while, on others, you have to use one or several pushers, and if you change the date during the " danger zone " time ( 9 PM / 3 AM ), you are done, your movement is broken, or at least, there are big chances it breaks.

Therefore, it is a GMT, which will be appreciated by the travelers among us.Here again, the two pushers on each side of the case makes it easy and friendly.

Nothing new, these specificities are shared by any Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendar GMT.

Which is new is  the aesthetics. And I must say I am pleasantly  surprised!

I had a problem with the model which was former to th " El Toro ". The case, the bezel and the hands were too close to the Sonata, in fact, they were the same.

So, if you already owned the Sonata, getting the Perpetual Calendar may be disturbing... It may be.

Here is a photo of this former Perpetual Calendar GMT, Ref  329-60:


With the El Toro, you don't have the problem of a too close aesthetical proximity with the Sonata, even the Sonata Streamline:


The El Toro has a strong personality, with an unvaoidable counterpart... It may not be eveybody's taste.

With the new Perpetual Calendar GMT, the register is different...

The case is more conventional, as big as the El Toro ( 43 mm ) but more conventional, consensual.

The lugs are deliciously shaped, the dial is more discrete than on the El Toro or the former version, the skeleted hands are thinner, and the bezel is  more sober than before.

The infinity symbol just above the mention " Perpetual " is a nice detail, too.

Less exhuberant than the El Toro, it gains in elegance, what it looses in character.

It is a limited edition of 250 in Platinum, and 250 pieces in Rose Gold.

The Rose Gold version:


Here are the live pictures I could take thanks to the kindness of the Paris Boutique:


 

 



Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,

Best,

Nicolas
This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-03-16 12:31:44 This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-03-16 12:32:18 This message has been edited by pingtsai on 2014-03-16 15:26:32 This message has been edited by amanico on 2014-03-20 15:24:49

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Comments: view entire thread

 

A more consensual timepiece...

 
 By: foversta : March 16th, 2014-15:57
The watch looks much more classic than the other PC watches of the collection even if it keeps obviously the original lay-out of the dial. But more consensual doesn't mean lack of character: the size of the bezel, the large pushers and crown give a quite ... 

I am quite seduced by this one, Fx.

 
 By: amanico : March 17th, 2014-08:26
More than by El Toro, to say all. And this way, it is not too close to the Sonata Design. Good. Best, Nicolas

Thank you Nicolas, very nice pictures and nice....

 
 By: Sandgroper : March 16th, 2014-17:22
little review. I agree with you in regard to the and the similarities with the Sonata, these hands are splendid in my opinion but as you say, they should have been "reserved" for the Sonata. The El Toro is not my cup of camomille;) This later iteration i... 

The 38 mm has a lot of charm, I must say. But this iteration is far from

 
 By: amanico : March 17th, 2014-08:27
Being uninteresting... Tea or Camomille? ;) Best, Nicolas

Bonjour Nico, I agree, this iteration is very nice.....

 
 By: Sandgroper : March 17th, 2014-17:37
I was only talking about the size. I really like the new dial and hands. Camomille, please;) Cheers Francois

I am quite impressed and very happy that the

 
 By: timerider : March 16th, 2014-20:57
larger wrist crowd is getting a 43mm with the classic design. I find the evolution here to be a tailored one, not radical and the watch exudes fine taste. The rotor has been refined and the sacred symmetry of the dial still shows the great originality of ... 

I am still undecided ...

 
 By: Marcus Hanke : March 17th, 2014-02:45
On the one hand, the larger diameter has some attractiveness, but the massive crown and pushers let it appear even larger than the 43mm diameter would suggest. Dial-wise, the windows for weekday and month are now very close together. I have to see it in f... 

My pleasure, Marcus. As often, it is much more appealing in the real

 
 By: amanico : March 17th, 2014-08:30
Than on pictures. Can't wait to read your final words on it! Best, Nicolas

I definitely like this version.

 
 By: MichaelC : March 17th, 2014-08:37
In pt and gold; pt more though. I think they have given this important complication a more refined and classy look. I like the subtle and unique dial guilloche. Yet the case size and hands maintain a masculine presence. I would like to try one on. Thanks ... 

I think this one looks better than the last few incarnations. the larger...

 
 By: Ronald Held : March 17th, 2014-11:32
Case size seems to make the cutouts look less symmetric than on the version I own.

A strong family theme, and those beautiful hands of the early sonatas

 
 By: bernard cheong : March 26th, 2014-18:33
I think the perpetual is a beautiful choice of value.

The hands were strong on the former and the el toro...

 
 By: Echi : March 26th, 2014-21:23
This one, not so although i like the proportion relative to the indices. But, not a strong aesthetic and makes it too safe for a UN :-)

Too wise for you? That is an interesting point you raise!

 
 By: amanico : March 28th, 2014-08:38
But if you remember the first perpetual calendars / GMT from the 90ies, early 2000's, they were in the same vein... Best, Nicolas

Thanks for reminding me of my treasures...

 
 By: Jester : March 30th, 2014-05:49
I'm a big fan of this complication and I love the UN interpretation: ...