Hard one but probably positive

Jun 21, 2015,13:56 PM
 

Judging Kering by whom they own, it's a toss up. I'm not an expert on them though I have good cognition of brands.

They have done extremely well with Balenciaga and Bottega Venetta, especially BV which was nothing of a brand five years ago which has been HUGELY built. It's a similar transformation Hublot had but probably quicker. They haven't done much with Brioni and if they treat UN like Brioni then it will be fine. Equally, they have dragged McQueen out of nowhere, same with Stella McCartney. Gucci has not really changed much at all. Conversely, couple of their brands have stagnated and are going nowhere (or they are just trash, Jeanrichard and Kane). And I totally agree, their watch strategy is... well fk knows! I would hope they see UN as the top of the pile from their watch selection and that they intend to commercialise it more and I suspect they do.

I'd expect UN to become significantly more commercial. However, this is a good thing though the top of the range may suffer, with UN. UN has huge distribution issues - you can't find most of their watches ANYWHERE - they have pathetic sales channels compared to most other brands. You find Breguet everywhere, there are like 30 shops in Vegas with a good selection of them, why UN is so rare who knows. Similarly, their range is in a dire need of work. All of these enamel pieces... Christ... it's not 1930. That needs cutting down. Their marine range needs work, their case sizes are a little small, I'd go for taller cases and keep diameters in check, and the range of products available is very poor with a very very strange wide availability in some models (again, enamel!). Try get a gold band with a marine UN... good luck! I would expect to see some diamonds in the future of men's UN too. Their ladies range is pretty good design wise, in fact it's great, but the brand lacks promotion for this segment. Their men's range needs a lot of work. They need to discontinue much of their products, consolidate and concentrate on a few models. Sorry guys but the days of a thousand variations are probably over.

You know, I actually think this will be a good thing for UN with regards to the lower and mid range end pieces. It will likely be a very bad thing for the top end commercial pieces (freak/repeater). Horologically, UN will likely fall in statue as it's commercialised. 

Let's hope Kering get rid of all titanium UN watches and save that for GP, I'm sorry but give me steel any day, these super light weight watches feel cheap and nasty and I have no idea why UN refuse to make steel marine watches.


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U.N. just another name in the Kering stable

 
 By: Rock1 : January 14th, 2015-06:36
Seems like a shame to me when I read the press release in News Central about the new CEO of Sowind. Check it out for yourself. Ulysse Nardin's name is listed along with many other "lesser", cheap brands sold in department stores around the United States a... 

UN is also in the same group than GP.

 
 By: amanico : January 14th, 2015-10:24
I thikn we should judge on the collections to come, rather than on the group they belong. We'll see if it is a good thing, or not. Don't you think so? Best, Nicolas

So it will join GP as a mis-managed brand!

 
 By: CastorKrieg : January 27th, 2015-15:13
Kering is the worst group from the Big-3 (with LVMH and Richemont being the other two) where a watch brand can end up. It's obvious the conglomerate has no idea on the overall direction of its watch business, and is very fashion-focused. Baselworld 2014 G... 

Hard one but probably positive

 
 By: qwertex : June 21st, 2015-13:56
Judging Kering by whom they own, it's a toss up. I'm not an expert on them though I have good cognition of brands. They have done extremely well with Balenciaga and Bottega Venetta, especially BV which was nothing of a brand five years ago which has been ... 

Hi qwertex, UN has historically done quite well as an independent with ...

 
 By: GLau : June 22nd, 2015-09:43
some of their complications such as Freak, Tellurium, minute repeaters with automatons, etc. Enamel wise they are recognized with great artistic work, especially after the purchase of Donze Cadran. You may not like with their motifs (just different stroke... 

No steel marine watches?

 
 By: Marcus Hanke : June 23rd, 2015-15:02
I am puzzled. All marine models are available in steel, this is even the main case material. Titanium plays but a very minor role in the UN line. And case sizes even larger? They are at 45mm already, more is simply ridiculous, and not wearable at all. Mar... 

Very much agree with you Marcus

 
 By: Dave G : June 25th, 2015-14:18
When they went to 43mm, this to me was the limit. The 45mm trend is just too big and they are already plenty thick. Bring them back down to 40mm and less. Steel is by far the most prevalent metal so I don't get that comment either. At least here in Asia t... 

Perhaps the titanium backs and strap links on many UN marine watches

 
 By: cazalea : July 14th, 2015-17:07
are what the poster is referring to. I agree I can't think of too many UN ti watches. Cazalea