Ulysse Nardin
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"In the flesh". Novelties '06, pt. 1: Anniversary 160

By: Marcus Hanke (registered) Tuesday, April 3rd, 2007

To start with: the watch is not round. When I first posted the press pics to our News Central page, I din't realize it. then came the first questions: round or not round. I said: round, but perspective of the pics makes it look oval. others said: no. I said: maybe the press pic was somehow distorted after import. others said: maybe.

Well, when I had the watch in my hands, and after checking that my eyes were not faulty at that moment, I could confirm that indeed, the watch was oval. somehow. not really oval, but a little. weird?

No, fascinating, and a marvelous design. I love it! And I am not paid with Swiss chocolate for saying that. Really, the "Anniversary's" design is unusual, to say the least, but this is something we should have grown used to from Ulysse Nardin. Let's start:


It is impossible to reproduce the dial's multi-layered complexity in quickly made pictures. You have to believe me when I tell you it is breathtaking.






The uniqueness of the case design continues in the side view as well.




I already hear the respectless "bathtub"-comments





The real highlight: the new cal. 160 with the Dual Ulysse escapement.


The unique LIGA-produced escapement wheels, made from nickle-phosphorous, can be clearly seen left of the balance. Also note the nice balance bridge that adds stability.


The rotor shows a unique lacquer-insert, similar to that in the perpetual.


The crystal was dirty, which I didn't notice in the rather poor lighting conditions. The plate engraved with "Ulysse Nardin" is made from white gold.


Another nice detail, underlining the importance attributed to useability at UN: the big date can be easily turned forward and backward, and it is not necessary to worry about the time of the day when doing this. During the roughly 45 minutes when the date gear is actually moving the big date, a friction mechanism prevents any input from the crown reaching the date mechanism, so it wouldn't move. After the date switching has finished, free movement is possible again. Nice, isn't it?

Best regards,
Marcus