Mini-mini review: New Ulysse Nardin folding clasp
By: Marcus Hanke (registered) Tuesday, April 3rd, 2007
Not a new watch review, but nevertheless a vital component of the wristwatch: the right clasp can make the difference between a smooth and comfortable wearing experience and a hell, with bloody abrasions and hurting pressure spots. More or less, the clasp is the most important part of the watch. Strange, then, that apparently it gets only little attention from the designers.
Bad experiences with various folding clasps, especially those of the double folding species, kept me using simple tang buckle, at least on most of my watches. On my UN watches I only used a folding clasp once. It was the older design:
I found it not too comfortable. But last year in Basel, I saw a new clasp design, and now I wanted to give it a try. I therefore ordered a new stainless steel folding clasp in 18mm:
As
you can see, it is of the double folding design. When it is closed,
barely anything indicates the brand of the watch, only a small laser
engraving showing the anchor and "UN":
Only after opening the clasp, the letters UN stamped into the center show off more consipicously:
Mounting the clasp to the strap was easy, but one needs a set of good watchmaker's screwdrivers. Two small screws have to be loosened, then the clasp can be attached to the buckle end of the strap. On the other side, there is a standard pin to be placed into the right hole in the strap. What looks like another pair of screwheads, are the release pushers of the clasp:
The old folding clasp design had been reported to open accidentally, when the small locking pin was bent out of place. Especially with softer precious metals this was frequently the case. The new design is locking absolutely reliably, only by pressing both pushers, the clasp will open.
Wearing is very comfortable, even on my rather wide wrist. The new UN clasp is one of the very few I can wear all the time, without feeling the urge to take off the watch after a few hours. Nothing hurts, there are no abrasions on the skin. The manufacturing quality is flawless, the part is well worth the price.
Regards,
Marcus
